THE HIGHER TASTE

Tofu fried, and black-bean sauce.

Ingredients.
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 (14- to 16-oz) block of firm tofu
1 cup plus 3 tablespoons peanut oil
2 (4- to 5-inch) fresh mild red chiles , thinly sliced diagonally, then seeded
2 1/2 to 3 tablespoons black beans, rinsed well and drained
3/4 cup vegetable stock
1/4 teaspoon soy sauce
3/4 teaspoon potato starch
1 tablespoon water
1 tablespoon hing
1/2 teaspoon sesame oil
1 to 2 teaspoons chile oil

Preparation.
Cut tofu lengthwise into 1/4-inch-thick slices, then cut each slice crosswise into thirds. Blot tofu pieces between layers of paper towels to absorb excess moisture. Repeat with 1 or 2 changes of dry paper towels.

Heat 1 cup peanut oil in wok over high heat until thermometer registers 375°F. Cook tofu in 5 or 6 batches, stirring to keep slices from sticking together and turning over as needed, until golden, 1 to 2 minutes per batch. Transfer tofu as fried with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain. Return oil to 375°F between batches. Carefully transfer oil to a heatproof container to cool (before discarding), then wipe wok clean.

Reheat wok over high heat until smoking, then add remaining 3 tablespoons peanut oil, swirling to coat wok evenly. Add chiles and hing and stir-fry until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add black beans and stir-fry until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add stock, tofu, and soy sauce and simmer 3 minutes.

Stir together potato starch and water in a small bowl, then add to tofu mixture in wok and simmer, stirring until sauce is thickened, about 1 minute. Add in chile oil to taste.